It is early morning. The sky is an autumnal dusty blue. There is a light mist across the vineyards. The low sun is bright and golden. The air is chilled and clean. I'm in Puligny Montrachet and it is harvest time. This is the worst possible time in the year to visit vineyards and wine makers. They are all insanely busy getting the grapes in and cannot spare the time to welcome visitors. But the atmosphere is wonderful. First thing the roads are full of ancient buses full of vendangeurs singing and shouting raucously. All day the vineyards are full of people swarming like bees with huge baskets on their backs. In the evening you walk past courtyards packed with long tables where the pickers are being fed like a banquet scene by Bruegel.
And the wine and food at lunch and dinner is simply unbelievable. Yesterday I explained that I was in a hurry and had only an hour available for lunch. Could I have something quick? No problem. But their idea of fast food was not quite the same as mine. An amuse bouche of frothy lobster, roasted quail to start. Lamb with rosemary. Chocolate parfait with mint granita. €27 (plus a glass of Chambolle Musigny)
Last night I has the tasting menu at Olivier Leflaive's. 15 of his sensational wines with half a dozen small courses of what people here call simple food. €50 all in - wine and food.
What shall I do today. Visit Chassagne? Go up to Chambolle? Make a start on the return by going as far as Rheims and visiting a fez champagne growers?
Decisions, decisions, decisions....
t,
Bon chance avec the upmarket rural wine scene. Mais si tu es dans la France maintenant and are interested in something a little more down to earth, don't forget all the wine fairs at the supermarkets on at the moment http://www.vinogusto.com/en/wine-fairs-2010-france/73 . La rentree is traditionally the time of year for big wine promotions. We've just been stocking up for winter drinking!
